Step-by-Step Guide to Laying Laminate Flooring

Laying laminate floors is easier than you think!

Step-by-Step guide to laying laminate flooring might sound challenging, but it’s actually a straightforward project you can tackle yourself. With a bit of prep and some easy steps, you’ll have beautiful floors in no time. This guide will walk you through the process, helping you dodge common mistakes along the way. By the end, you’ll have a brand-new skill under your belt—and a stunning floor to show off!

Tools You’ll Need

Before you start, gather the essentials:

• 12–15mm Spacer Blocks
• Drop Saw or Circular Saw
• Jig Saw
• Utility Knife
• Straight Edge & T-Square
• Pull Bar
• Soft White No. 2 Rubber Mallet
• Pencil
• Tape Measure
• Safety Glasses

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Step 1: Remove Old Flooring and Archtraves

Before you can install your new laminate, you’ll need to get rid of the old flooring. Here’s how:

1. Carpet: Use a utility knife to cut the carpet into manageable strips, then pull it up and dispose of it. Remove any nails or staples left behind.
2. Tile: Use a chisel and hammer to loosen and remove tiles. If they’re stubborn, a floor scraper or electric chipping hammer might come in handy.
3. Wood or Vinyl: Check if the floor is glued or nailed down. Use a pry bar (wrecking bar) for glued areas and carefully lift nailed-down planks. I used a rotary hammer drill

(18V XR Brushless SDS-Plus Hammer Drill (1 X 4 Ah) (22 mm)(Amazon)

Once you’ve removed the old flooring, inspect the subfloor. Ensure it’s clean, level, and free of any debris that could interfere with the new laminate.

Remove The Architrave with Multi tool (Amazon)

Step 2: Prepping Your Space

The key to a smooth installation lies in the prep work. Follow these simple checks before you get started.

Allow the Floor to Acclimate

Laminate floors are designed as floating floors, so they shouldn’t be glued or nailed down. To allow the flooring to settle, leave it in the room where it will be installed for at least 48 hours. This acclimation period prevents buckling from temperature and humidity changes. Keep the boxes sealed, and stack no more than five high to avoid damage. Throughout, maintain a room temperature between 18–28°C.

Prepare the Subfloor

You need a solid foundation, so check that your subfloor is:

• Clean
• Dry
• Flat
• Structurally sound

For concrete floors, test moisture levels using an in-situ probe, with a target of 75% RH or lower. Any dips greater than 3mm should be filled with a leveling compound. Wood subfloors should be dust-free and stable, with any loose or warped boards replaced.

What About Existing Flooring?

Good news! Laminate flooring can be installed over many types of flooring like PVC, linoleum, or ceramic tile, as long as they meet the requirements above. However, avoid installing it over carpets, carpet underlays, or existing floating floors.

Step 3: Laying an Underlay

A quality underlay goes a long way in protecting your laminate floor. We recommend using a 2mm sealed-cell underlay with a moisture barrier. For an extra layer of protection, you can lay down a 200um builder’s plastic sheet before the underlay.

If you have underfloor heating, ensure it’s a hydronic in-slab system, not an electric radiant type, as the latter can damage the floor. Gradually increase the floor’s temperature after installation to avoid sudden changes that may cause the planks to expand too quickly.

Step 4: Leave Room for Expansion

Laminate floors need space to expand and contract with temperature changes, so keep a 10–15mm gap between the planks and all fixed vertical surfaces (walls, door frames, cabinets, etc.). For larger areas (over 12m x 8m), widen the gap to 15mm. Cover these gaps with skirting or scotia trim, but avoid sealing them with caulk or silicone.

Step 5: Laying the First Row

Now for the fun part—getting the floor laid! Start by planning the direction of your planks. Running them parallel to the longest wall or towards the main light source can enhance the room’s look. When you’re ready:

1. Start in the Right Corner: Begin by placing spacers against the wall to maintain your expansion gap. Lay the first plank with the end and side grooves facing out.
2. Use Masking Tape for the First Row: Masking tape can help keep the short ends of the first few planks aligned, making it easier to build your foundation rows.

Step 6: Connecting Planks

Add the Next Plank: Place the tongue of the next plank over the groove of the previous one. Press down, or give it a light tap with the mallet until it clicks securely. Be sure the ends line up perfectly to avoid damaging the locking mechanism.

1. Complete the Row: Measure and cut the final plank of the row, leaving space for expansion. The first row sets the tone for the entire floor, so double-check that it’s straight before moving on.

Step 7: Building the Second Row

Now that the first row is set:

1. Use the Leftover from Row One: If your last plank from the first row is at least 400mm long, use it to start the second row, creating a staggered look.
2. Connect the Long Edge First: Angle the plank into the groove of the first row, then lower it while applying gentle pressure for a snug fit. Repeat until you reach the end of the row.

As you go, make sure these first two rows stay straight and square, as they form the foundation for the rest of the floor.

Step 8: Keep the Offset Pattern

Continue adding rows, staggering the end joints by at least 400mm to keep the layout looking natural and balanced. Regularly step back to ensure everything lines up well.

Step 9: Finishing Up

As you reach the final row:

• Cut to Fit: If the final row requires narrower planks (at least 50mm wide), measure and cut carefully, leaving room for expansion.
• Apply Glue Under Door Jambs: Remove the tongue on the final plank under door jambs and apply glue to the end join for extra security. A pull bar can help lock everything in place.

Disassembling Laminate Planks (If Needed)

Need to disassemble? Simply lift an entire row at an angle to separate it. For individual planks, slide them apart while keeping them flat on the floor, lifting slightly if they stick.

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